How To Remove And Installing Old Steel Tub?
Monday, February 22nd, 2010 at
1:32 pm
Removing old steel tub(probably not cast iron) no access under or sides, concrete wall where drain assembly is, will new tub sit exactly on old drain and switch plate and best and easiest tub to replace. Remember unable to get underneath tub flooring or behind faucet wall(cinderblock adjoining house)? best way to remove putting all new cement board walls and tiles and how is old tub fastened, house built in 1964?
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Easiest way is to hire a plumber, or someone that has plumbing experience. If you do decide to do it yourself, the easiest tub to replace it with will be either a plastic, acrylic, or fiberglass. The fiberglass is more durable, but is a little heavier and more expensive than the plastics. I would also recommend that you replace the waste and overflow for the tub at the same time, and more than likely you will have to anyways, as the new tub will probably be a little different than the old one.
To start with removing the old tub, you will need to remove the drywall on all sides. You will then see how the tub is secured to the wall. It may have clips, or it may just sit on a ledger board. You will then have to remove the drain assembly. this is done by removing the screws from the overflow, and un-threading the drain by using pair of pliers, or a tub drain wrench(recommended, since you should use this for the re-installation and it only costs about $16). After you do this, you should be able to pull the tub away from the wall, or if it is cast iron as previously stated, take a sledge hammer to it. This is about as far as I can get you, and I hope it helps.
the tub could be fastened by a couple of ways
1. if it has molding around it, check and see if they used tapcon srews on it.
2. if there is no tapcons then they might have use a glue to fasten it in. You will have to cut the glue out usind a recepcating saw (or someother item to cut the glue)
3. they could have use cutter nails(horse shoe nails)
With it being a cinterblock wall the pluming will be tricky to say how they ran it with out looking at it but the main thing on the drain is to measure the dist. from the walls and make sure you get a tub that has the same measurements.
I hope this helps
If you post a pic i might be able to give you some more help or you can email me a pic.
as far as the drain you can build a platform so you can rerun the drain to fit a new tub.
If I was to bet, I would say that its cast iron. Take a sledge hammer and break it into small pieces. It will take a few wacks, but they do break up.
I did this one time..I had to use a crowbar to get under the edge & then a handman jack to pull it loose..I had to get help to get it out of the house..it was nailed to the rafters under the drywall. I never saw a tub that didn’t have an acess to the drain..usuallyit is on the other side of the wall. I replaced it with a two piece tub from Menard’s..You get the bottome in place & then fasten in the top..You have to buy a two piece..or you won’t be able to get into the bathroom. We ended up with a nice looking tub and shower surround when done. I cut a small door in a closet to finish the plumbing..Some tubs were plumbed in while the house was being built..& no access provisions were considered.
get a sledge smash it up take it out in pieces
AS heavy and as tough as these old cast iron tubs seem, you really can smash them with a sledge hammer and haul them out in pieces.I’d be carefull and wear eye and probably face protection. The pieces go everywhere when the tub shatters.
First make sure that he new tub does have the right dimensions/ will fit on the same old space. Then, once that you removed the old tub, patch the tile or floor or walls. Paint or dress them to the outcome you desire. Then you try to drop put the new tub on the old mounts or just on the ‘gargle’ hole you prepare to fit it with your new tub’s outlet. Seal it with silastic or other such something slime sealant, around the underneath of the tub’s connection point with the tub. And bingo! For as long that the water have its free fall and nothing will obstruct it from going down, there will be no more problems!
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Question from boyce1 in Webmaster Central – Webmaster Tools
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14 and 12(2.0mm) are best I would go for the 12 with what you want to do, it probably wouldn't remain untouched with a good hit, but you don't want it too heavy.
for my armour I wouldn't use anything less that 14(1.6mm) but you could get away with 16 (1.2mm) but it wouldn't be up for heavy punishment.
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so just for the night or forever and ever??
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depending on how old the house is, the sheetrock could be different – past 5-6 years they have built better sheetrock (older sheetrock is more likely to crumble no matter what you do). First you have to see if it is glued, nailed or screwed on. If it is glued, you are better off replacing your sheetrock so you have a better substrate for your new backsplash. If nailed, it should come off easy, and if screwed, you can see the screws in order to back them out. Good luck – hope it works out.
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Article by at 2010-04-07 20:52:19
Categorized in All-Clad,
Thank you for this tutorial!